Pass on the "one whistle side" ???

Saturday afternoon and evening in downtown Chicago on a great looking 53 foot Matthews motor yacht. It doesn't get much better. We dined at Ruth Chris Steakhouse, had a number of guests on board, and got to be entertained by a salty cruise line captain who dropped in to see our boat.

The cruise out of Chicago was slow with 30 or so bridges (all of which we cleared by less than 2 feet). After 20 miles the scenery had changed to woods and the occasional power plant and we could cruise at full speed (10 knots per hour). We passed through 3 locks today and had to wait more than an hour at one due to a large barge passing through (one of the many we encountered). By and large the barge captains were courteous and even helpful. The last barge we met head on and the captain suggested we pass on the "one whistle side" ????

We made it to a great Marina which was closed for the night so we docked at the fuel dock and had dinner in their restaurant.

Our neighbor, boy am I going to miss Chicago.

Captain Larry found my blog after seeing us sail into Chicago and sent me his contact info. I called and he came down to see the boat and regale me with stories from the sea. Larry is Captain of one of the cruise boats on the Chicago River and also worked as a bosun on a cruise line on the Columbia River.

                                    
           

Crew change. This is Jeff's second round on this trip. I really wanted Jeff for the trip across the big lake to Chicago. Dave is my "river rat" mate.

                                   

View as we left port this morning.

                                     

View just 20 miles after we left port.

Dave remembered the drill for getting through locks.

These are very large locks, that is a 36 foot boat in front of us. The first drop was 42 feet.

The river was full of barges. Some were rafted 3 wide and covered the entire channel I learned a new nautical term today. A barge captain radioed we could pass on "one whistle side". I sheepishly asked if that meant port side and he chuckled and said, " Yes Captain". I suspect two whistles represents starboard.

We had a beautiful day on the water and were nearly blinded by the evening sun.

We docked just before dark at Spring Brook Marina at mile marker 251.8. The Illinois River runs 325 miles from Chicago to where it joins the Mississippi River.

A hitchhiker in the middle of Lake Michigan ?

As you can see by the first photo we got out early. Lighthouses are really prettier in the dark.

Around 1/2 way across Lake Michigan we picked up a very tired hitchhiker that rode the rest of the way to Chicago with us.

  The weather forecast called for light winds from the northeast this morning then backing out of the west this afternoon. Neither Jeff or I had heard of the wind backing from somewhere. Well we learned what it means when we were about 30 miles from Chicago. Simply put, the wind will stab you in the back as soon as you are at the furthest point from land. The last 3 hours of the voyage from Holland to Chicago was not any fun. Crossing waves ranging from 3 to 6 feet beat us up pretty bad,  what made it worse was that we could see the Chicago skyline from 30 miles out (still had three hours to travel). I sure was glad I had a salty sailor like Jeff along, we shared the piloting duties in 15 minute shifts over those final 3 hours.

  It was worth the struggle when we reached Chicago by 4:00 and we were docked at Jefferson Marina by 4:30.We are tied up at the first marina inside the Chicago River from the lake; 3 blocks from Michigan avenue, across from Morton's Steakhouse, and three doors down from the House Of Blues.

Dave Bragg arrives tomorrow to replace Jeff. Dave will be on board down the entire length of the Illinois River from Chicago to St Louis.

Leaving Port Holland this morning.

Our hitchhiker earned his ride by gobbling insects on the aft deck.

It was here on the Voyage that he west wind backed in.

We were around 20 miles out when this was taken.

The lock to enter the Chicago River from Lake Michigan..

Chicago Harbor.

View from our dock.

They must have known I was coming.

                                      

We saw the elusive LMBND today.

We slept in today. Skip crawled up to the pilot house at 7:25 and said we must have needed the sleep. Our travel goal was slightly less today than the the previous two days, 85 miles to Holland Harbor. We left Ludington at 7:45 and arrived Holland at 3:30. The lake was so calm we travelled the entire way on autopilot. Skip said he could understand how boating and cruising could get into your blood.

The nights get pretty long so Skip and I played a fair amount of Gin Rummy at a penny a point. Skip was surprised how fast the debt could build at that rate. After 8 games Skip owes me $13.83 (blames it on karma, just like the fishing).

Jeff arrived tonight to travel over to Chicago so Skip could get home tomorrow. Skip has been a super crew mate.

Dinner tonight was boneless chicken breast simmered in chicken gravy with red pepper. I thickened  the gravy with pancake mix and served everything over toast. Yum.

Chicago tomorrow. 

Heading out this morning at 7:45 (slept in). This lone fisherman is heading in while we are outbound.

Chef Skip made a great scrambled egg, potato, onion, ham, and toast breakfast. 

Vacation condos outside tonight's harbor.

Lighthouse entering the Holland Harbor. This harbor is frequented by folks from Chicago. Some of their resort homes are shown below.

We were very fortunate to have spotted this rare Lake Michigan Bottled Nosed Dolphin (LMBND).

                                     

The one that didn't get away.

Leland Harbor is a small facility, maybe 40 slips and has a creek that runs maybe 300 yards to a dam. During the fall salmon run the fish crowd into this harbor so thick you can watch them jumping almost constantly. last night Skip and I fished for about an hour. Skip didn't get a nibble. I had 5 strikes and hooked 3 large salmon. The first fish broke my line due to a problem with the reel (this reel wasn't designed to bring a 20+ lb fish). The next salmon managed to shake the hook after a 10 minute battle. I played the third (and largest) salmon for about 15 minutes until the fish was wore out then slid the fish to the net (Skip was the net man). After two attempts Skip brought the net up with my lure firmly embedded in the net while the fish swam away. Those that know me will not believe that I said the following to Skip when this happened " Don't worry about it buddy, there's a lot more in the lake to be caught". Today Skip netted a nice Northern Pike for me (the one that didn't get away). Skip still hasn't gotten a nibble.

Left Leland early this morning and traveled 95 miles to Ludington Harbor. The lake was actually CALM. What a treat, the sun came out 1/2 way through the day. Tomorrow and Friday are supposed to be nice. We are two days voyage from Chicago (185 miles). I hope Chicago doesn't live up to it's reputation as "The Windy City".

CALM, cold, and cloudy morning.

Sleeping Bear Dunes Refuge. Michigan boasts the largest sand dunes of any fresh water lake in the world !

Mid morning and the clouds are starting to part. Note the CALM water.

A perfect afternoon with CALM water.

Big Sable Point light house. 

The "SS Badger" in port in the Ludington Harbor.

End of the day with more CALM water.

The one that didn't get away.

                                    
    

Why Popeye has such big arms.

Finally got out of Mackinaw and traveled 95 miles to Leland Harbor. The lake treated us fairly well except for the three hours crossing the open water of the Grand Traverse Bay where we encountered 4 to 5 foot waves with an occasional 6 footer to keep us awake. I was forced to pilot the boat the entire distance across the Bay as the autopilot is not suitable for those conditions. Now I know why Popeye's arms are so big.

Our goal for tomorrow is Ludington Harbor and the mouth of the Pere Marquette River, 90 miles south of Leland and just 185 miles from Chicago (2 days voyage).
 

6:45 AM as we passed under the Mackinaw Bridge.

4 miles out from the bridge towards Lake Michigan.

Lighthouse at Grays Reef Passage where we turned south towards Chicago.

Skip as the ships navigator.

The Captains response to the Navigators suggestions.

Leland Harbor, home for the night and 90 miles south of Mackinaw City.

View from the Leland Fish House restaurant. Reminds me of Lucerne.

Hot apple pie at the Fish House.

                                     

                                     

Calling for good weather again tomorrow !

Would you sail with this Captain ???

We docked here in Mackinaw City 4 days ago. Shortly after we tied up, a large sail boat docked directly across from us and the couple on board has been here the entire time we have. I found out this afternoon they attempted to leave Mackinaw City the morning we arrived and got 8 miles into lake Michigan before turning back to redock here. Seems the Captain is the regional NOAA weatherman based in Green Bay, Wisconsin and is trying to get home. If I had known his occupation I may have had a few words with him.

Tomorrow the forecast is for light NW winds and waves 2 feet or less. Lake Michigan here we come.
Had a small problem in the hold today. Our fresh water pump started running continuously. There was obviously a leak in the system somewhere. As Captain of the ship, it was my duty to order Skip into the engine room to locate the problem. After locating the leak (hose clamp let go on hot water tank) I moved swiftly, armed with nothing more than a screwdriver, and corrected the problem. Skip crawled into the engine room with me, took a picture,  laughed, and said;                                "Would you sail with this Captain".

Wow, the mornings are beautiful up here.

This is at least a 20 foot flag (40 mph winds).

Mackinaw City is a great place to shop with a quaint downtown.

The locals say these are typical  November Gales and keep mentioning some guy named Gordon Lightfoot (must be Indian weatherman).

My first Pink Salmon.

Would you sail with this Captain ???